It’s been a long time coming, but last week, I finally went to the DMV to buy temporary license plates for the weekend. I was really excited to try the car as I’ve never driven an S2. I did drive a 2.8 V6 Audi 80 a couple of years ago so I expected it to be somewhat similar to that one, just slightly more powerful. Boy was I surprised! It’s nothing that can compare to the sound of the Audi I5 2.2l turbo engine when it comes on boost 🙂 Almost everything worked flawlessly throughout the two days of driving, although there were some issues. The driver side door latch kept slipping out of its second stage notch and the horn didn’t work but these were easily fixed. The main issue were the brakes. Since I bought the car, the red brake warning light has been flashing every time I turned on the ignition. I thought this was because there were no pressure in the system and that it would fix itself once I got it driving a bit, but it unfortunately, it wasn’t that easy. The warning light did go away once I got some revs on the engine, but it came back under hard braking or braking while the engine was idling. I deduced that it had to be the brake pressure accumulator, aka the Bomb, as the symptoms of a broken accumulator were exactly the same as I had. I also had an issue with the left rear brake getting stuck while driving so I decided to replace it. I’m not a hundre percent sure what got stuck so I’m gonna replace the disc, the pads, brake lines and fluids as well as refreshing the seals in the caliper using a rep-kit.
I’ve ordered new parts, so now it’s just to play the waiting game.
I’ll add some pictures of the car with the summer tires. I’m still not sure if I like em though, might swap them for some other ones during the summer.
After completing the interior, it was time to go take a look at the engine. I had no information about when the cam-belt was last changed and I suspected the head gasket to be bad, so I decided to take the top off and change whatever I could find that looked old, broken or should be changed considering the car is almost 30 years old. I’ll type a list of parts I changed and post some pictures. The job was easy enough, but I took my time and fixed whatever I saw necessary.
Head gasket and head cover seal
Front crank seal
Engine oil, power steering oil, coolant and brake fluid
Clutch master and slave sylinder
Replaced bad cooling and vacuum hoses
Exhaust and inlet manifold gaskets
I also fitted the original air filter box, but I’m missing the heat shield towards the turbo and exhaust. Guess I’ll have to make something.
Good thing I decided to take the turbo water and oil lines of. The last guy working on the car had used liquid gaskets, and applied too much.. The hole was almost completely clogged up and would certainly be the end of the turbo.
The clutch pedal on the S2 felt a little weird and it would not release the entire way before you helped it by dragging it with your foot. I decided to replace the master and slave sylinder instead as the parts aren’t that expensive. As I currently have the top of the engine, access was easy and the job was a quick one. Spent some time bleeding the new system, but the result was a much better clutch feel and the pedal now extends the whole way without needing help.
I had to fix one of the front fog lights as the glass was broken. Both lights had become very gray and old-looking so I decided to replace the glass in both of them. I discovered that the fog lights were from an old Porsche 993 and not the original Audi S2. The front fender is an aftermarket fender which does not use the original lights.After a bit of searching, I got hold of a set of replacement glasses on eBay.
The glass replacement was a straight forward job. A little fiddling getting the old glasses out, but it turned out ok.
I completed fitted all the suspension upgrades and put the car back down on its wheels. It looks good, but I will need to do a little tweaking to the ride height and do a four-wheel alignment before it is road ready.
I found that the rear toe adjustment bars were too long so I had to fit the original ones, but that shouldn’t be a problem.
I had to create new break hard-lines between the two flexible ones on the front dampeners as the nuts were completely fused with the original lines and broke when I tried to get them off.
In addition to this, I had to cut a hole in the chassis to be able to get one of the bolts holding the rear subframe out. It was completely rusted to the threaded plate/nut in the chassis. I found a piece of steel plate which I welded back in the hole and added some rust protection.
Been a while since my last update, and the reason is that I’ve mainly been waiting for parts…
About a month or so back, I was out driving and noticed that when pulling in 4th and 5th gear, the engine revs increased, but the speed did not. I was hoping that I could get away with the engine upgrades without changing the clutch, but it seems it wasn’t so. I decided to upgrade the clutch instead of just getting a new standard piece. After some research, I opted for the 240mm FX100 clutch designed by ClutchMasters as well as a new 240mm lightweight single mass flywheel to match. Upgrading to a larger sized flywheel holds a lot more torque than the original 224mm dual-mass one in addition to the added gripping power og the new clutch. Installation went flawlessly without major hassles, but I’ll tell you, lifting the gearbox in place when alone is not a straight forward job… I laid on my side under the car while guiding the gearbox with my hands and operating the jack with my feets 🙂
While the car was already on the jack stands and the driveline was disconnected, I decided to get new front suspension control arms and upgrade to polyurethane bushing as the original bushings were worn out. I got a complete set of front control arms and a complete set of bushings for street use (although I got an upgraded (track) piece for the lower-front control arm on both sides). The tricky part installing these were to get the original rubber bushings out of the control arms. I don’t have a hydraulic press which ment getting the hammer and angle grinder out. After some struggling, the original bushings came out without damaging the control arms and the polyurethane bushings were installed using the supplied grease. I also had to replace the rear passenger side control arm as it had some damage and was somewhat bent… I also painted the inside of the wheel wells with an anti-rust/corrosion solution and washed all the parts that had to come off.
I also upgraded the exhaust downpipe as I only had done the first 30cm or so when upgrading the turbo. I decided to go for a 3in pipe all the way back to the 2.5in Simens sports exhaust. In addition to this, I fitted a flex-joint so the exhaust can move without damaging the turbo as well as a v-band joint for easy removal in the future. I also fitted a third lambda-connector in case I want to install a wide-band air-fuel gauge in the future.
As the Audi A4 B6 standard car is not known for its awesome brakes, I figured it was time for a brake upgrade.
I spent some considerable time researching brake upgrades for the car and after a while landed on a set up that wouldn’t cost a years pay (read big brake upgrade) while still providing a big improvement in braking performance. I managed to track down a set of callipers and brackets from an 2006 A4 B7 2.0T avant witch had the 320mm front disks. These are bolt on replacement callipers for the A4 B6 which fits the project perfectly. In addition to the callipers, I bought a set of yellow-stuff brake pads and slotted 321mm ventilated disks produced by EBC. Since then, I’ve heard that people have had bad experiences with the yellow-stuff brake pads but I decided to give them a try and see how they behave. I also bought a new set of Bosch rubber brake lines to compliment the new callipers.
As of tonight, I replaced the right side brakes before i got hungry and decided to get some food. The brakes fitted perfectly and bolted on without issues.
I’ll update after I’ve done a test-run with both sided replaced.
Update: Finished replacing and bleeding the front brakes and took it for a test run. Unfortunately, it was snowing, so I couldn’t do any hard brake tests, but I drove it for a good half an hour to get the protective film off the disks and pads. It seems to work pretty well and I defiantly noticed an improvement over the standard disks and pads. I took it out for a ride a few days later and noticed that the brakes has reduced performance when cold – this was expected though, and shouldn’t be a problem.
All in all, very happy with the upgrade. Time to make a plan for replacing the rear as well. I’ll write down the part numbers in case someone would like to do the same upgrade.
After fixing the misfire issues, I decided to protect the coils a bit by creating a rudimentary heat-shield over the turbo and exhaust manifold. I modified the original heat-shield to fit alongside the PCV modifications which turned out ok. I’ll post some pics of the engine bay as I’ve completed the upgrades I intended to do this time around 🙂
After many hours of head-banging I finally solved the misfire issues! I had previously compiled a list of possible issue that I used as a checklist for eliminating possible faults one by one.
Now, lets review the list of suspects from an earlier post:
Bad gas (water etc.)
Bad spark plugs
Low fuel pressure
Bad crank position sensor
Bad O2 sensor
And several others.
From just about every post and article I read on the internet, coils and plugs were on, or near, the top of the list of usual suspects. I had previously upgraded coils and plugs when I tuned the engine to stage one back in november 2016, so I figured they were OK. I did fix a few vacuum leaks thinking it was it, but the problem was still there.
I then went on and replaced the following items:
Crank position sensor
PCV check valve (pancake valve)
Misc. check valves
As it is a 15-year old engine, most of these parts needed replacement anyway, so I figured this was a golden opportunity to get it done. Unfortunately it did not resolve the misfire issues and I was running out of ideas.
As a stroke of luck, I got a hold of four coils from my brothers 2001 VW Passat before he sent it to the scrappers. I threw them in there to see if it made any difference – and voilà – the engine purred like a kitten!
Lots of work, lots of parts changed and the issue was what everyone said it would be… Lesson learned, listen to the majority and change the obvious culprit first.